High level guide to Mechanical Watch Restoration

How professionals bring timepieces back to life — and what every collector should know.

Mechanical watch restoration sits at the intersection of engineering, craftsmanship, and art. Whether it’s a century-old pocket watch, a post-war Omega, or a family heirloom worn for generations, a full restoration requires precision, patience, and deep respect for the watch’s history.

This guide explains the full restoration process from a watchmaker’s perspective — what we do, why it matters, and how to know whether your watch is a good candidate for restoration.

1. What “Restoration” Actually Means

Many people confuse restoration with servicing, but the two are different:

Servicing

  • Routine maintenance
  • Complete disassembly
  • Cleaning, lubrication, adjustment
  • Replacing worn movement parts

Restoration

  • Everything in servicing plus:
    • Cosmetic case and dial work
    • Replacing or fabricating rare parts
    • Correcting historical inaccuracies
    • Rebuilding water-damaged or rusted components
    • Crystal, crown, and hand refinishing/replacement
    • Timing and amplitude recovery from severe deterioration

Restoration aims not only to make the watch run — but to honor its original identity.

2. Initial Assessment: The Watchmaker’s First Look

Before opening the case, a professional evaluates:

  • Movement condition
  • Case integrity
  • Crystal condition
  • Dial originality
  • Hands and crown compatibility
  • Signs of moisture, rust, or prior amateur repairs

This inspection stage guides the entire restoration process and determines how original the final result can remain.

3. Complete Disassembly: Every Component Separated

A mechanical watch contains anywhere from 50–250+ parts depending on complexity. During disassembly:

  • The movement is removed from the case
  • The dial and hands are detached
  • Bridges, wheels, springs, jewels, and screws are catalogued
  • Worn or damaged components are identified
  • Replacement or fabrication plans are made for rare parts

Photographic documentation ensures each component returns exactly as intended.

4. Ultrasonic Cleaning: Removing Decades of Wear

Using specialized cleaning systems:

  1. Old oils and dirt are broken down
  2. Parts are rinsed through multiple solutions
  3. Jewels and pivots regain proper smoothness
  4. Rust and corrosion issues become fully visible

This stage often reveals hidden mechanical problems.

5. Movement Restoration: Repairs, Replacements & Reassembly

Once clean, the technical work begins:

Common repairs include:

  • Polishing pivots
  • Replacing or adjusting jewels
  • Correcting bent wheels
  • Rebuilding worn gear teeth
  • Replacing mainsprings
  • Restoring proper balance amplitude

Each part is lubricated with precise oil quantities under a microscope.
Reassembly demands near-surgical precision — tolerances are measured in microns.

6. Dial & Hands: Preserving Identity

A crucial part of restoration is deciding how much to preserve vs. correct.

Typical approaches:

  • Original preservation (retain patina, stabilize damage)
  • Light cleaning (remove surface grime without disturbing paint or lume)
  • Refinishing (only when original dials are beyond recovery)
  • Hand reluming (color-matched to the era of the watch)

Collectors often value originality more than perfection.

7. Case, Crystal & Crown Restoration

Casework

  • Removing scratches
  • Respectful refinishing that preserves original geometry
  • Laser welding for dents or metal loss
  • Cleaning corrosion from lugs, casebacks, and bezels

Crystal Work

Replacing or polishing acrylic, mineral, or sapphire crystals dramatically improves the watch’s appearance and legibility.

Crowns & Stems

These are checked for wear, function, and water-resistance capability; replacements may be needed.

8. Timing, Regulation & Testing

Once assembled, the restored movement is tested for:

  • Beat error
  • Amplitude
  • Rate stability across positions
  • Power reserve
  • Automatic winding efficiency (if applicable)

The watch is monitored for 24–72 hours to ensure consistent performance.
Only when everything stabilizes is the restoration considered complete.

9. How Long Does Restoration Take?

Depending on condition and complexity:

  • 10–40 hours — standard mechanical watch
  • 40–100+ hours — chronographs or heavily damaged pieces
  • Weeks to months — sourcing rare parts or fabricating components

Patience is essential; quality restoration cannot be rushed.

10. Should Every Watch Be Restored?

Not all watches make good candidates.

Great reasons to restore:

✅ Sentimental or family heritage
✅ High-value vintage models
✅ Historical significance
✅ Watches intended to be worn long-term

Reasons not to restore:

❌ Over-polished cases that can’t be corrected
❌ Dials where refinishing hurts value
❌ Frankenwatches with mismatched parts
❌ Watches worth less than restoration cost

A professional watchmaker can help you weigh these factors.