For many watch enthusiasts, a watch winder seems like an essential accessory: a handsome box that keeps your automatic watches alive, turning silently in the background. But as with most things in watchmaking, the real answer is more nuanced. Depending on the movement inside your watch—especially if you own a triple date, annual calendar, or perpetual calendar—a winder may be either a convenience… or unnecessary wear.
Below, we break down what watch winders actually do, how they work, and when it makes sense (or not) to use one.
What Exactly Does a Watch Winder Do?
Automatic watches wind themselves using the movement of your wrist. A watch winder replicates this motion by gently rotating the watch, allowing the rotor to swing and keep the mainspring charged. This keeps the watch running while it’s off your wrist.
A well-designed winder typically lets you control:
- Direction (clockwise, counterclockwise, or bi-directional)
- Turns per day (TPD) — to match the requirements of your movement
- Rotation cycles — to avoid overwinding
A watch cannot be overwound on a winder—modern automatic movements have slipping clutches—but it can be inefficiently or improperly wound if the TPD or direction is mismatched.
Should You Use a Watch Winder?
The answer depends heavily on the type of watch you own.
For Simple Time-Only and Date Watches
A winder is optional.
Pros:
- Convenience — no need to reset time and date.
- Keeps lubricants moving, though modern oils do not require constant motion.
Cons:
- Unnecessary wear — parts are moving continuously instead of resting.
- Minor power consumption and cost.
Verdict: Use a winder only for convenience. Your watch does not need one.
For Triple Dates, Moonphases, and Other Complicated Calendars
A winder becomes much more useful.
These watches have:
- Multiple calendar wheels
- Moonphase mechanisms
- Seasonal or monthly cams
Resetting them after the watch stops can be time-consuming, and in some cases must be done only when the hands are in certain safe positions to avoid damaging the calendar mechanism.
Pros:
- Saves time (and frustration) by keeping the watch running.
- Reduces handling of pushers/correctors, which can wear down with frequent use.
Cons:
- Slight continuous wear—but generally less than manually resetting complications repeatedly.
Verdict: Recommended if you rotate wearing your watch and dislike complex resets.
For Perpetual Calendars
A watch winder is often strongly recommended.
Perpetual calendars track:
- Date
- Day
- Month
- Leap years
- 30 vs. 31-day months
- The February transition — including leap-year logic
Resetting all of these after a watch has stopped can be a delicate and time-intensive process. Some perpetual calendars require advancing the date through long sequences of months if the mechanism cannot be set backwards.
Pros:
- Prevents lengthy resets or trips to the watchmaker.
- Minimizes the risk of damaging fragile mechanisms through incorrect adjustments.
- Ensures the watch remains accurate throughout its complicated 4-year cycle.
Cons:
- Cost of a quality winder (but far cheaper than repairing a damaged perpetual calendar).
Verdict: For perpetual calendars, a good winder is worth it.
When You Should Not Use a Watch Winder
A winder is not ideal when:
- The watch will be stored long-term.
In that case, let it stop naturally. Movement parts will rest and oils remain stable. - The watch is vintage and fragile.
Older movements may have aging lubrication or worn components that are better left running only during actual wear. - You only wear the watch rarely.
If it will sit for weeks or months, a winder provides no benefit.
How to Choose the Right Watch Winder
For complicated watches, quality matters. Look for:
- Adjustable TPD (500–1000 TPD is common for most calibres)
- Adjustable rotation direction
- Gentle start-stop rotation cycles
- Soft, secure watch cushions
- Quiet motors (important for bedroom placement)
- Brand-specific settings if available
High-end winders often include built-in LED indicators, programmable modules, and even app controls—helpful for managing multiple watches with different specifications.
Final Thoughts
A watch winder can be an excellent convenience tool—but it’s not a universal necessity. For simple automatic watches, it’s optional. For heavily complicated pieces—triple dates, moonphases, and especially perpetual calendars—it can save time, protect delicate components, and keep your watch functioning as intended.
At Chronoglide, we generally recommend:
- Skip the winder for basic watches unless you value convenience.
- Use a winder for calendar complications.
- Insist on a winder for perpetual calendars.