Why hand‑wound movements still matter — and what every owner should know.

In an era dominated by automatic movements, manual‑winding watches remain deeply appealing to collectors and purists. They offer thinner cases, direct mechanical interaction, and a tactile connection to timekeeping that no rotor can replicate. But they also demand more attention — and a bit more understanding.

This article explains how manual watches work, why brands still make them, and how to care for them properly.

1. What Makes a Watch Manual?

A manual‑winding watch has no automatic winding system.
All energy is delivered by turning the crown, which tightens the mainspring directly.

Key characteristics:

  • No rotor or winding gears

  • Thinner movement architecture

  • Complete reliance on the wearer for power

It’s the purest expression of mechanical horology.

2. Why Collectors Love Manual Watches

Manual movements offer advantages beyond nostalgia:

  • Slim profiles due to fewer components

  • Mechanical visibility (especially in open or display‑back designs)

  • Daily ritual that builds a personal connection

  • Reduced wear from the absence of automatic winding systems

For many enthusiasts, winding the watch is part of the ownership experience.

3. The Winding Experience: What You’re Feeling

When you wind a manual watch, you’re feeling:

  • Gear train resistance

  • Mainspring tension increasing

  • Click spring engagement

  • Crown‑stem friction

A smooth, even resistance is ideal.
Grinding, slipping, or sudden stiffness can indicate wear or lubrication issues.

4. Can You Overwind a Manual Watch?

Modern manual watches usually cannot be overwound.
Once the mainspring is fully tensioned, resistance simply stops increasing.

However:

  • Vintage watches can be damaged if forced

  • Continued pressure after resistance peaks risks breaking the mainspring or winding components

Rule of thumb: wind until resistance increases clearly, then stop.

5. Power Reserve & Winding Frequency

Most manual watches offer:

  • 36–48 hours of power reserve

  • Some modern designs extend to 60–100+ hours

Best practice:

  • Wind once daily at the same time

  • Wind fully rather than partially

  • Avoid rapid or aggressive winding

Consistent torque improves timekeeping stability.

6. Manual vs. Automatic: Wear Considerations

Manual watches eliminate:

  • Rotor bearing wear

  • Reverser wheel degradation

  • Automatic winding inefficiencies

But they introduce:

  • More crown and stem usage

  • Increased reliance on proper winding technique

Overall, well‑maintained manual movements can be exceptionally durable.

7. Servicing Manual Watches

Service intervals are similar to automatics:

  • Every 8–10 years depending on use

During service, watchmakers inspect:

  • Crown and stem wear

  • Click springs and ratchet wheels

  • Mainspring condition

  • Barrel lubrication

Neglected lubrication affects winding feel long before accuracy suffers.

8. Common Manual‑Watch Issues

Watchmakers frequently see:

  • Broken mainsprings from age or force

  • Worn crown threads

  • Slipping click springs

  • Bent stems from lateral pressure while winding

Most issues are preventable with proper technique and timely service.

9. When Manual Makes the Most Sense

Manual watches shine when:

  • Thinness matters

  • Display‑back movements are a priority

  • The watch is worn daily

  • The owner enjoys mechanical interaction

They’re less ideal for infrequent rotation unless wound regularly.

10. The Takeaway

Manual‑winding watches aren’t outdated — they’re intentional. They prioritize engagement over convenience and simplicity over automation. For collectors who value mechanical honesty and daily ritual, a hand‑wound watch isn’t a compromise — it’s a feature.